Azelaic Acid

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a mild acid that occurs naturally in grains such as barley and wheat – and one of skincare's most versatile ingredients. It works on several fronts simultaneously: evens out the skin tone, counteracts pimples and calms redness-prone skin, while being milder than most other acids. This makes it a smart choice for those who want results without irritation.

Benefits: Anti-inflammatory
Categories: Acne, redness, uneven skin tone or hyperpigmentation.
Skin types: All skin types

Azelaic acid is a multi-functional ingredient that helps to improve skin tone while visibly improving unevenness in the skin and having a clarifying effect on impurities. It is found in several grains and is produced naturally by yeast that is normally present on the skin. The formula contains a very high concentration of 10% pure azelaic acid in a light cream-gel that suits all skin types and also works for sensitive skin.

The highest permitted concentration of azelaic acid in over-the-counter skincare products is 10%. However, for the treatment of acne and vitiligo, doctors can prescribe a stronger variant with a concentration of 20%, which is marketed under the name "Skinoren".

Benefits of Azelaic Acid

• Acne: Azelaic acid helps to reduce inflammation and redness in acne by fighting bacteria and reducing the clogging of pores. It can also reduce the appearance of acne scars over time.
• Rosacea: For rosacea, azelaic acid acts anti-inflammatory, which reduces redness and irritation. It is particularly effective for treating pustular rosacea, where small pimples and bumps are common.
• Hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid inhibits the production of melanin, which can reduce dark spots and uneven skin tone, especially in conditions like melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

How do you use Azelaic Acid?

You can easily start using azelaic acid in your skincare routine. Do this:

• Application: Apply azelaic acid over the entire face or spot-treat areas (e.g. impurities or uneven skin tone).
• Frequency: Start by using the product every other day to get the skin used to it. If no irritation occurs, you can increase to daily use.
• Time of day: Azelaic acid can be used both in the morning and evening. However, many prefer to use it in the evening, as the skin gets to rest and recover during the night. If you use it in the morning, always follow up with a moisturizing cream with sun protection (at least SPF 30).
• Combine azelaic acid: Azelaic acid can advantageously be combined with niacinamide to calm the skin and strengthen the skin barrier, hyaluronic acid to maintain moisture and reduce dryness, as well as sun protection to protect the skin from UV rays and enhance the effect of the treatment.

FAQ

Can you combine azelaic acid with Vitamin C?

Yes, azelaic acid and vitamin C work excellently together. They complement each other by working in different ways to brighten and even out the skin tone. The combination can accelerate the results.

What is the difference between azelaic acid and AHA / BHA?

Azelaic acid, AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) and BHA (beta hydroxy acid) share some similarities, but this is what sets them apart:

• Exfoliation: Just like AHA and BHA, azelaic acid can, when correctly formulated, have a mild exfoliating effect on the skin. However, not as effective as glycolic acid (AHA) or salicylic acid (BHA).
• Unique properties: Azelaic acid is particularly powerful for improving uneven skin tone and treating specific skin concerns, such as redness and spots, where it often outperforms AHA and BHA.
• Combining acids: This combination can be a perfect solution to manage several skin concerns simultaneously, such as bumps, uneven skin tone and signs of aging. By using them together, you get a routine that works on different levels.

Can you use azelaic acid when pregnant?

Yes, azelaic acid is safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It is a good choice for treating acne or pigmentation changes during this time.

How long does it take to see results?

Results vary from person to person, but most notice improvements after 6-8 weeks of regular use.

Do you need to get your skin used to azelaic acid?

Yes, it is recommended to get the skin used to it by starting with lower concentrations or using the product every other day in the beginning.

What is Skinoren?

Skinoren is a prescription medication that contains 20% azelaic acid, intended for the treatment of acne and sometimes other skin conditions.