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Hyaluronic acid has become skincare's most beloved moisturizer – and rightfully so. It can bind up to a thousand times its own weight in water, plumps dry lines, and gives the skin a plumped, glowy radiance. But what is hyaluronic acid really, how does it work, and how do you use it for the best results? Here we go through everything you need to know.
Although the name indicates that it is an acid, hyaluronic acid is not really an acid in the sense we are used to as a strong ingredient that should be applied in moderation. In fact, it is a sugar molecule that naturally already exists in the skin to a high degree. Its function in the body is, among other things, to bind moisture and, together with collagen and elastin, build up a plumped and strong skin. At a younger age, there is naturally a larger amount of hyaluronic acid in the body, but it decreases over time with age, which leaves a drier, duller skin that can feel tired.
The natural hyaluronic acid in the skin is a sensitive molecule that is easily broken down by UV light and free radicals. Sun-damaged skin therefore usually looks drier, which is due to the hyaluronic acid having been broken down to a higher degree as the molecule is sensitive to sunlight in particular.
As the natural levels of hyaluronic acid gradually disappear, it is good to add it to your skincare to restore the moisture balance. This not only provides results for someone over 30, but works well at all ages to give the skin an extra boost, especially if your skin tends to be drier. The hyaluronic acid encapsulates the moisture and reduces water evaporation, which means that less moisture is lost during the day, and the skin therefore stays plump and nice all day.
Although hyaluronic acid is considered a natural ingredient by most, it is often produced synthetically. It can be extracted from rooster combs, but it is more common to produce it through what is called bacterial fermentation. This is a very gentle ingredient that is risk-free. Skinroller has chosen to develop a vegan formula for our hyaluronic acid.
Since hyaluronic acid originates from the body itself with its moisture-binding ability, it is not hard to figure out why it has become so popular in skincare today.
Hyaluronic acid can come in several different molecular sizes that determine how deep into the skin it takes effect. The smaller the molecules, the deeper it can work. Here are the three you most often see in the ingredient list:
If it says hyaluronic acid or hyaluronsyra in the ingredient list, it means that the ingredient forms a protective layer on the surface of the skin and helps to bind moisture there. An example of such a product is Hyaluronic Acid Moisture Ampoule from Chamos Acaci.
This ingredient, sodium hyaluronate, has been developed to be able to penetrate deeper into the skin and counteracts oxidation.
This type has even smaller molecules and thus penetrates deeper into the skin layers. This is an excellent ingredient to remedy wrinkles as it works deeply over time.
If you have a serum with hyaluronic acid, you apply it after cleansing. Our tip is not to dry the face completely dry, but leave the skin slightly damp and apply 2–3 drops of the serum. Applying on damp skin helps the hyaluronic acid to encapsulate more moisture. Do not apply oil before the serum, as oils can make it harder for the serum to penetrate the skin.
Hyaluronic acid is one of the gentlest ingredients and works well together with most things. It pairs excellently with Vitamin C and niacinamide for glow, and is a perfect companion to retinol – the moisture from the hyaluronic acid mitigates the dryness and flaking that retinol can sometimes cause. Follow the simple rule: thinnest consistency first, thickest last.
Yes. Hyaluronic acid is one of the few ingredients that suits virtually all skin types – dry, oily, combination, and sensitive skin. It is mild, non-comedogenic (does not clog pores), and works well even for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, as it is neither exfoliating nor strong.
They are two completely different things. The hyaluronic acid in a serum or a cream hydrates the skin's surface and upper layers and provides a plumping effect as long as you use the product. Fillers, on the other hand, are injected deep into the skin by a trained practitioner and are a cosmetic procedure – not skincare. This guide is about the hyaluronic acid you apply yourself at home.
No, not if you use it correctly. Since hyaluronic acid attracts moisture, in very dry air it can draw moisture from the skin's deeper layers if the surface is dry. Therefore, always apply on slightly damp skin and lock it in with a cream on top – then it binds the moisture in the skin instead.
Both. Hyaluronic acid is gentle enough to use twice a day – in the morning under sunscreen and in the evening as part of your hydrating routine.
Yes, hyaluronic acid is made for daily use and builds up the skin's moisture balance best when used continuously.
You do not have to choose. Retinol renews the skin but can dry it out, while hyaluronic acid hydrates – together they balance each other perfectly. Apply the hyaluronic acid closest to the skin and the retinol in a later step.
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